|Photo: Public Domain, NOAA, via Wikimedia Commons|
There are those who are sentenced to death, and those who greedily chase it with every penny, every thought, every heartbeat.
I have tried to do the math. One cubic meter of ocean equals about one ton. A wave ten meters high, a horizontal portion twenty meters wide, that's some 400 tons barreling along at who knows what speed, chasing you down, curling over you, enough power to rupture your organs, slam you to the seabed, snap your bones in half.
You say that you are never so "alive" as when you are cheating death.
I say that I am never so dead as when you are feeling "alive".
You share an intimacy with this colossus which confounds and exasperates me.
Go, if you must, and call forth your dreams.
"Ku mai! Ku mai! Ka nalu nui mai Kahiki mai..."
(arise, arise you great surfs from Kahiki)
The waves have swallowed "us"; may they not swallow you.
|All of my blog posts are "FCA"|
Written as part of the WEP Spectacular Settings Challenge. We are to "share a paragraph from a novel, or an extract from a poem, or a photograph that stopped your heart with a spectacular setting etc", describe what we liked about the setting, then share our own "setting piece" (new or from WIP). I chose to write a flash.
Big wave surfers pit themselves against one of the most powerful forces on earth. There are better photos available, but this one...well, those surfers look like tiny little stick figures. It showcases the frailty of humans and the magnificent power of nature.
Thanks for reading! There will be more challenges in the future, so check out the link to WEP if you'd like to join the fun.
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